28 July 2025

Secrets of the Desert: Boca de Potrerillos and Hacienda del Muerto – stories from Monterrey

Hola!

The sun over Monterrey burns like fire, and the desert wind carries tales older than memory. When you look at the horizon, on one side you see the gray, sharp ridges of the Sierra Madre Oriental, and on the other – like a mirage – loom the stone silhouettes of forgotten places. It was here, between the sand and the silence, that I set off on another journey: in the footsteps of ancient rituals and the spirits of the past. Mexico never ceases to amaze me, and this time its mysteries took shape in two places: "Boca de Potrerillos" and "Hacienda del Muerto." It's only 45 km from the center of Monterrey. Most of the route is on national roads, but the final 3 km is on unpaved roads, with an uncertain, crumbling shoulder. Be careful. And it's best to rent an SUV for this trip.

It was a journey through time – like a spiral descent into another dimension.

Let me take you on it.

Stones that speak – The mystery of Boca de Potrerillos

The silence among the rocks can scream, if you only learn to listen.

At first glance, it seems like just a field of stones. But as you delve deeper, you suddenly feel as if someone is watching you—not from hiding, but from beyond time. Boca de Potrerillos is the largest petroglyph site in northern Mexico—hundreds of thousands of carved stones, inscribed with symbols of the sun, animals, ritual signs, and... something indecipherable.

Archaeologists speculate that the site served as a ceremonial center for pre-Columbian nomads. But local shamans claim it was a "gateway to dreams"—a place where the world of the living connected with the spirit world. Research in 2001 revealed that some of the petroglyphs may have functioned as an "astronomical calendar," suggesting advanced celestial observation by the local people.

One local legend tells of a man who returned to this spot every night to speak with the soul of his deceased wife. The stones were said to whisper answers to him. One night, he never returned – he disappeared, and a new symbol appeared on his favorite boulder: two halves of the sun, connected by a line.

What's more, here: "Every stone has its own memory. You just have to learn to touch it." – this is how Dr. Roberto Cárdenas, an archaeologist from the Autonomous University of Nuevo León, summarizes the secrets of the stones scattered throughout the area.

At night, this place is completely different – supposedly, then you can hear the "dance of the stones."

Remember to bring a hat, plenty of water, a notebook, and... 87 pesos in cash for the ticket. An elderly gentleman with two dogs will greet you at the gate and lead you to a small museum room. Then he'll show you the path to the stones. Mine was cloudless and 44 degrees Celsius...

I continued on. Heading for Hacienda del Muerto.

Hacienda del Muerto – The House That Forgot to Die

Set back from the main roads, bordering old smuggling routes, Hacienda del Muerto looks like it stepped out of a gothic novel. Once a bustling farm, now a ruin, amidst which the wind howls and memories rattle.

Some ruins aren't empty—they simply wait.

This place is shrouded in dark infamy. According to legend, during colonial times, the hacienda was run by Don Gregorio de la Torre, a man with a steely gaze and a heart full of fear. It was said that he hid treasures and performed rituals in the basements to ensure immortality. One stormy night, the hacienda burned down—with Don Gregorio inside. But residents of nearby villages swear that "...his shadow still haunts the ruins."

Next to the ruins is an old church with a cemetery – the crosses are tilted, the slabs are cracked, and at one of them... someone is still laying flowers.

Visit the hacienda at dusk. The setting sun creates eerie shadows – perfect for photos, but... don't look back.

Not every ghost is necessarily evil. In Mexico, a ghost is part of the family.

In the Nuevo León region, I've often encountered a gentle approach to ghosts. They don't scare people here – rather, they remind, warn, and sometimes guide. Locals tell of white figures who rescue lost tourists, of holy dreams that bring answers, and of ghosts of children who play at night in old schools.

If you want to hear these stories, sit by the fire and let the elders speak. That's all. And don't interrupt. In the nearby village of La Ventura, I tried a local dish called "cabrito al pastor"—a young goat roasted over an open fire. This dish was once served during important ceremonies on the hacienda, symbolizing an offering to the spirits of the ancestors.

(Photo: Alejandro Linares Garcia - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, )

“In Mexico, you don’t ask if ghosts exist. You ask what they want to tell you today.” – Ana María Morales, cultural anthropologist says.

The Holy Desert – The Spiritual Face of Nuevo León

The desert isn't just sand—it's a roofless cathedral.

Local beliefs intertwine with Christianity here in a unique way. In nearby towns, a fiesta is held in honor of San Nicolás de Tolentino, the patron saint of souls in purgatory. Prayers are interwoven with music, incense, and dancing during the celebration.

But there are also stories of mysterious crosses appearing in the sand, and of hermits who vanished without a trace, leaving behind only a dried rose or a medallion.

Ask the older residents about the "cerros encantados"—hills believed to shelter holy spirits. One of these is said to be located near Hacienda del Muerto.

Mexico is one of the countries with the highest degree of religious syncretism – a fusion of ancient beliefs with Catholic symbolism.

"The Mexican desert never forgets. It simply remains silent until someone who is willing to listen comes along." – Isabel Ruiz, local guide and storyteller, says.

Flavors of the Desert – Food as a Ritual

Eating in the desert is more than just satisfying hunger – it's a conversation with the ancestors.

In every village, I encountered dishes with a story behind them.

Gorditas rellenas made from cornmeal, stuffed with stewed meat, baked in a clay comal – it's not just a taste, but a story about women who for generations fed their men returning from the desert.

"Café de olla" – coffee with cinnamon and brown sugar – is also common in the region. Legend has it that it's the favorite drink of souls wandering at night – it's left by the window so the nocturnal spirits can "sit down and warm themselves."

It's worth asking about "recetas de las abuelas" – grandmothers' recipes. Many of them were never written down, and each ingredient has its own meaning.

"Food is a memory that smells and tastes. When you cook your grandmother's recipe, you're not alone." – Chef Patricia Quintana says.

Spirits that teach – and stones that remember

When spirits speak in whispers, listen with your heart.

Boca de Potrerillos and Hacienda del Muerto are not places for tourists with selfie sticks. They are points on a map of time – stops where something happened and continues to happen. These are places that change you from the inside out. Just sit, listen to the wind, and... trust the desert. Maybe then the stones will speak to you. Or maybe a spirit will leave you a cup of coffee.

If you enter with respect, you will leave with a story. And maybe, like me, you will begin to understand that the desert is more alive than it seems.

I came back a different person. And I know I'll be back...
Hasta pronto, Nuevo León.